Århus, the city of smiles

First off, apologies for not having posted in some time. I know regular readers will have been losing eons of sleep over this, but I have been slightly nomadic recently. Initially intending to re-locate to Scotland, I've found myself in Denmark - one of my most favourite countries - re-booting my relationship with the girl from the Hazelnut Tart post.

We've been based in København - a future post will come on that - but for now I'm in Denmark's second city, Århus. Known as the city of smiles and as the cultural capital of the country, the place has an energetic beat largely due to its student population of 40,000. Out of a total of 300,000. Bet the locals are happy! The atmospheric old town ("Den Gamle By") is a living museum of houses, shops, gardens and kitchens and well worth a visit for a feeling of Danish life in centuries past, and the pedestrianised centre nods a head to it's students with it's array of shops, bars and clubs. It feels like a city pulling in two seperate directions, with one half storming toward the future and another clinging to it's proud tradition as a major port and centre of artistic prowess, making the future all the more fascinating.

It's fair to say that Denmark is not renowned for it's culinary tradition, save Pork, Cabbage and Smoked Fish. However, as I happen to adore Roast Pork, Red Cabbage and Smoked Fish all is well in my stomach. Last night we ate at a lovely little French bistro called "Sct. Oluf" with only four things on the menu. I've often wondered about this as a concept - a no choice restaurant where you sit down and 'get what you're given' - perhaps the diner, abdicated of all control, would enjoy simply being fed. As an indicator the place was rammed, cheap and good. And you'll soon learn that cheap, good food in Denmark is like gold dust. I ate Potato Soup, a braised Veal stew (achingly tender) and some Christmas pudding that consisted of an Amaretti biscuit base, stewed apples and a vanilla cream. All for 149Kr or just under 20 pounds (no pound sign on this keyboard!). Bargin. Note that the ingredients involved in those three dishes are not expensive. Yet another example that simple food, cooked well is all most people really want. If you want to go there it's on Mejlgade, number 33. No website, of course.

I also managed to steal a recipe for Red Cabbage, Danish style and in my opinion, the best there is to be had. It's bang in season at the moment and very 'Christmassy':

Klassisk Rødkal - Classic Red Cabbage
Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 Red Cabbage
2 Oranges, Skin and Juice
1 Cinnamon Stick
3 Star Anise
4 Bay Leaves
2 Cardamom Pods
200g Soft Brown Sugar
300ml Pear Juice or Blackcurrant Juice
200ml Cherry Vinegar
400ml Red Wine
Sea Salt, to season

Method:
(NB: As this recipe is translated by me from the Danish, I'm giving you my method for cooking. I only just mananged to work out the ingredients! It's quite time intensive, but not labour intensive. You just need to keep an eye on it.)

1. Remove the core and slice the Cabbage into fine shreds. Set Aside.
2. Quarter your Oranges and then slice lengthways so you have little triangles. Set Aside.
3. Find a large, heavy dish with a lid. Add your Cabbage and Oranges and a splash of water. Place on a medium heat for ten minutes to get it started.
4. Now add all your other ingredients (except the salt) together. Stir well and return to the heat. Make sure the lid is well sealed - use a tin foil seal under the lid to help if necessary. It's really important to keep the heat in. Stir every now and again. If the liquids are boiling off too quickly, reduce the heat. We want the cabbage to braise. Pre-heat an oven to 200 degrees centigrade.
5. After 20 mins transfer to the oven for roughly an hour. Stir every 20 mins or so. The end product should be soft and juicy.

This is one of those dishes that tends to taste better the day after, so the longer you leave it after cooking the better: it allows the flavours to infuse further. If you're re-heating, do so on the hob on a gentle heat and keep it moving. Don't let it stick!