October Leaves Falling

One of the most pleasing things about autumn is the aesthetic pleasure it gives the eye. Leaves turn from greens to browns, reds and oranges before falling to the ground and making the underfoot squelchy and slippy. Nature then stands before you, naked but not vulnerable - and re-invents itself in a few months time looking fresher and more youthful than ever. We, being top of the food chain, reap the reward of the seasons but will only gain true pleasure by working with them, not grating against them.

Think about Strawberries in May. They pack much more flavour, are cheaper because there's a glut of them and you can get them locally. Now compare that with buying them during the winter months. Bland, strangely watery, an anaemic interior and only palatable with huge quantities of sugar and/or Cointreau. That was NOT a suggestion -wait for the food to come to you. I guarantee the anticipation of food in season will make it taste all the better.

Thinking of the falling leaves, some that you get your hands on right now are the Nasturtium - or Tropaeolum to give them their official name - and they can be used in a variety of ways, the most common being mixing through salads. They have a distinctive peppery, slightly mustard-like taste and their flowers, whilst lacking on taste are incredibly decorative. You can also make soups from them, or toss them through a stir-fry for added nutrition. This is how I like to use them.

Tempura Nasturtium Salad with Goats Cheese
Serves 2

This salad can be served as a snack-lunch or a starter for a dinner party. It utilises all parts of the perennial Nasturtium plant. When picking, remove the flower heads and soak in water for ten minutes before using. Check them well for Earwigs, who seem to love hiding around the stamen. Once you're happy that they are clear, drain them on some kitchen paper. When serving, choose a light dressing as the goats cheese is quite rich. Finally, don't go mad on the seasoning, the leaves are peppery enough as it is!

Ingredients:

9 Nasturtium Flower Heads
200g Soft Goat's Cheese
4 Small Anchovy Fillets
A Good Handful of Thyme Leaves, Chopped
10-12 Nasturtium Leaves, Shredded
3 Good Handfuls of Watercress
100g Plain Flour
200 mls Ice-Cold Carbonated Water
1 Medium Egg
Sunflower Oil

Method:

1. Wash the Nasturtium flowers as directed above.
2. While they are soaking, cream the cheese, anchovy and thyme leaves together to make a paste.
3. Using either a teaspoon or piping bag, fill six of the flowers with the mixture. Do not overfill. Place in fridge to chill.
4. Pre-heat a fryer to 180 degrees centigrade. Use a flavourless oil like Sunflower Oil.
5. Make the batter. Whisk the egg and add the ice-cold water. Then gradually add the flour. Don't over do the whisking and don't worry if there are a few lumps.
6. Toss the leaves in your dressing of choice. Pick the colouful leaves from the remaining Nasturtium flowers and mix through. Season and arrange in the centre of a plate. Try to get some height involved here.
7. Remove the flower heads from the fridge and dip in the batter, coating lightly. Then fry until they are golden and bobbing on the oil like a boat on the ocean. Remove and drain.
8. Serve with the salad leaves.